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BLACK & WHITE PAPER
Developing Process
|
•Developer - 1-2 minutes
•Stop Bath - 30 Seconds •Fix #1 - 1 minute •Fix #2 - 1 minute •Final Water Rinse - 5 Minutes |
DEVELOPER for paper
•Developer for paper is Ilford Multigrade Developer
•The ratio for the developer is 1:14
•The Developer makes your invisible, latent image visible
• Latent Image is an invisible image that is exposed onto your paper or film
•Emulsion side down
•Agitate
•Must make fresh everyday
•The ratio for the developer is 1:14
•The Developer makes your invisible, latent image visible
• Latent Image is an invisible image that is exposed onto your paper or film
•Emulsion side down
•Agitate
•Must make fresh everyday
STOP BATH
•30 seconds
•a chemical bath that stops the development of paper
•acetic acid – YELLOW in color
•indicator stop bath - turns purple when it’s exhausted
•stop bath for paper is called Ilfostop
•Emulsion side down
•Agitate
•a chemical bath that stops the development of paper
•acetic acid – YELLOW in color
•indicator stop bath - turns purple when it’s exhausted
•stop bath for paper is called Ilfostop
•Emulsion side down
•Agitate
FIXER
•Fixer for paper is Ilford Rapid Fixer
•“Fixes” your paper by removing any of the unused, unexposed silver halide crystals that remain
•Once ”fixed” your paper is no longer SENSITIVE to light
•Without fixing, your paper will quickly darken or become “fogged” (gray)
•USE Hypo Chek to check the fixer for silver saturation. 2 drops – stays clear it is good. If it turns milky – it is exhausted. (not good)
•“Fixes” your paper by removing any of the unused, unexposed silver halide crystals that remain
•Once ”fixed” your paper is no longer SENSITIVE to light
•Without fixing, your paper will quickly darken or become “fogged” (gray)
•USE Hypo Chek to check the fixer for silver saturation. 2 drops – stays clear it is good. If it turns milky – it is exhausted. (not good)
FINAL WATER RINSE
•All RC paper must have a 5 minute water rinse
•Water rinse must be uninterrupted.
•Place as many prints in the wash at a time.
•Place a tray on top of wash to indicate a wash is in session.
•Water rinse must be uninterrupted.
•Place as many prints in the wash at a time.
•Place a tray on top of wash to indicate a wash is in session.
DRYING YOUR PRINTS
•TEST STRIPS – are to be squeegee and placed in the shelf to dry. NO TEST STRIPS ALLOWED IN PRINT DRYER!!
•Once prints have completed 5 minute water rinse – they can be dried in the print dryer.
•DO NOT MOVE THE ASSIGNED SPEED OR HEAT
•Place prints in the dryer – prints dry in 15 seconds
•WRITE YOUR NAME, PERIOD, ASSIGNMENT, APERTURE, SECONDS AND FILTER BEHIND EVERY PRINT!
•Once prints have completed 5 minute water rinse – they can be dried in the print dryer.
•DO NOT MOVE THE ASSIGNED SPEED OR HEAT
•Place prints in the dryer – prints dry in 15 seconds
•WRITE YOUR NAME, PERIOD, ASSIGNMENT, APERTURE, SECONDS AND FILTER BEHIND EVERY PRINT!
Black & White
Photographic Paper
•Paper that you use is called RC - Resin coated - is a plastic coating - resulting in a quick paper to develop and dry
•The surfaces come in glossy, pearl, and/or matte
•Black & White paper has an emulsion (shinny side) - which makes is sensitive to light
•It is sensitive to blue and/or green light = using a red or amber colored filter or light. Paper is sensitive to all type of light except red light!
•The surfaces come in glossy, pearl, and/or matte
•Black & White paper has an emulsion (shinny side) - which makes is sensitive to light
•It is sensitive to blue and/or green light = using a red or amber colored filter or light. Paper is sensitive to all type of light except red light!
